Valentino (MVM: Emily Baker / Daphne Groeneveld / Julia Saner / Monika Jagaciak) – Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011/2012

March 31st, 201111:43 pm @


Prada (last post) has been a show with a “deep roster” and an identity, well, not so marked – at least at first glance, and the way it’s been in other Prada collections recently. With Valentino the question is totally different. The collection is pretty homogeneous in its impeccable, mature and at the same time fresh elegance, but, straight to the point: I have the idea the “Valentino girl / woman” (or something like that) is somehow supposed to be a model like… well, not Emily, or Daphne, so someone like Julia, Tati, maybe even Freja or Caroline, so here the thing has been a little complicated. I usually tend to understand what the collection wants to express, and then I form my opinions, in this I simply can’t. I can’t not because who the “Maison girl” is somehow supposed to be wasn’t right, in fact in this case a model like Julia or Caroline is perfect and really looks great, but… I have the impression… well, we’re going to see the thing right now, model by model.

Btw it’s hard I choose two Most Valuable Models, three it happened… wait, I don’t even think it happened actually, but four!, yep, four here, and I decided it intentionally ‘cause, well, in fact Valentino is a pretty “easy” show, coherent and not multi-faceted like others – so it’s a good opportunity to focus on more subtle questions. Btw, a little thing: I generally don’t care so much about who opens or closes, but just for the record Ruby Aldridge / Freja Beha Erichsen did here…

+++ EMILY BAKER

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In fact, Emily Baker here is imo quintessential. First of all, take a look at her walk if you can, her presence walking on a runway, and then you’re easily going to get how impeccable and flawless she is, essential requirement for Valentino. Then, “she’s got something”, that something you can see in a Daphne Groenevald as well, but in this case is sometimes at outstanding and unreachable levels. She’s such a peculiar beauty, but at the same time the thing is balanced by an unexpected solidity, reliability and versatility. In fact Daphne is one of my fav models, but Emily seems to be… she’s very young too, so good thing she can express the same fresh vibe, but

-she’s got a very surprising maturity as well;

-she’s so classy, elegant, she’s got such an intriguing and refined femininity.

In fact, here she’s been my fav, ‘cause yep, quintessential as I said, representing the collection, and the models who embodied it for the best.

++ DAPHNE GROENEVELD

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Talking about models “who’ve got something”, Daphne is my fav from that point of view. What I love is she’s so peculiar, but at the same time she’s perfect for a show like Valentino. I’m happy for the success she’s having, with such an unexpected… you know, great “quality” of the shows, but talking about “quantity” the kind of model Daphne is sometimes has some limits, or better limited is mentality of who’s got to choose the models. In this case “no limits”, Daphne is great, luckily she’s having such a great success, and I’m very very happy.

Btw I’d like to underline how much I love her body structure, and this show is a good chance to show why. She’s so… so… well, I don’t think humankind still has invented words able to describe her, so I don’t want to lose time trying without a satisfying result, my words, but I simply can’t find others. Btw I’d like to underline it’s not such a great surprise to see her looking this much fabulous in a show like this one, Emilio Pucci is a good example of what I mean.

++ JULIA SANER

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Julia has got some limits, not about how a model can develop (or not), it’s about some characteristics I guess never change, whatever you do. She’s got a strong fresh and elegant vibe, absolutely, so… yep, I wrote not exactly enthusiastic things about her sometimes, but here she looks perfect. The point in fact is another, and it’s about being interesting in another way. It’s not about being “flawless”, it’s about “feelings”, the ones a Daphne gives and expresses almost overflowing, and that… you know, Emily Baker is the perfect halfway solution, but if we consider Daphne or Emily and total lack of “that particular vibe”, well, other solutions are certainly possible. From this point of view, Julia has some limits, and as I wrote things won’t change, at least imo.

Btw back to what I like a lot of Julia, these two outfits are a perfect example of what I mean; about second especially, she’s one of the best example of an elegance embodied with a welcome and delicious fresh attitude. From this point of view, I like Julia a lot.

+++ MONIKA JAGACIAK

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Simply “The queen of impeccable and flawless elegance” – even if it’s not that much simple; she makes it look easy, but believe me, it isn’t. She’s got everything to be the best model in practically every show, so I just wanted to underline it once again. Maybe I should have mentioned Freja as fourth MVM, and in fact the thing would have been more appropriate and someway complementary, but… Monika is Monika, and ok, I’m not totally objective when I write about her, ‘cause I honestly love her too much…

Btw I decided to mention these four (ok, plus: Freja) models to show that: a good spectrum of possibilities, four (plus one) perfect examples of how a model can embody Valentino in different and complementary ways, ‘cause the main point is that, complementarity. And, underlining it once again, personal thought: ok Julia, ok Freja, ok Monika, but what I love so much here is the Emily / Daphne duo, capable of something really surprising and kind of amazing; I love so much the fact Valentino elegance can be embodied this way, and so successfully. It’s the difference there is between being flawless and having something this much interesting, unique and special I guess.

? ARIZONA MUSE

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Copy & paste of what I wrote in last post about Prada show…

++ FREJA BEHA ERICHSEN

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This is the kind of things that show the great model Freja is. She’s got an outstanding personality and attitude, at the same time she’s one of the most solid “cover girls” around, and, here pretty evident, she’s capable of flawless appearances on the runway, embodying Valentino elegance perfectly and with a great maturity.

+ FRIDA GUSTAVSSON

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I have to say I used to love Frida, esthetically I still love “Frida the girl” to death, but the model lately (last months) gave me some… I’m not disappointed, just little doubts, about how great this model is. But the thing is especially about the “off the runway” chapter, so here as well she did what she was supposed to do for the best.

COLINNE MICHAELIS / KATE KING

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Two models I’m not so much convinced about, at least at the moment. “At the moment” is good especially for Colinne, I really believe a lot in development for her, and I think with a little time good things will come from her. Kate… I simply don’t like so much her at the moment, for some little limits (see: what I wrote about her Prada show in last post) but especially because… she simply hasn’t impressed me so far, maybe things will change, but now, no, I’m not a fan – even if I’m happy for her and the much she’s booked, after all she deserved.

+ CAROLINE BRASCH NIELSEN

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Caroline is great, she’s pure solidity, she could walk 99% of the shows convincingly, and here she demonstrates pretty well why. I have to say she’s a model who generally doesn’t arouse my enthusiasm, but here, you know what?, I liked her, sure I did.

MAUD WELZEN

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Good thing: she walks shows with such an amazing “copy % paste” walk and attitude, it’s hard to see models with such a great capability to propose themselves with this continuity; bad thing: I don’t like the way Maud does it… it’s incredible, it’s always the same thing, I really can’t think of other models looking identical this way in every show. It could be great, good, but if you don’t like it, and this is the case, at least for me it’s a problem. And it’s somehow a shame ‘cause no, she’s not the model I could like the most, but it seems she’s got everything to be a good model after all… I hope and wait for some changes in the future. Maybe it’s simply about lack of communication, I don’t want to say this is the case but this is a good opportunity to say for the record a lot of times it happens…

ISELIN STEIRO

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In this case I’m kind of… nothing against the model by herself, but this is the case where you feel something, and it’s not positive. You see all the models before her, the ones after her, and you simply have the “out of place” feeling. Partially for the kind of beauty she is, but her walk especially, please take a minute, find the show online and… you’re going to understand who Iselin is in a second: an incomprehensible injection of aggressiveness for a Valentino show; hehe so why not Ashley Smith too?!, and before the show whisper “Fierce, fiercest you can” in her ear… *_*’

+ GINTA LAPINA / JOSEPHINE SKRIVER

+ MARIQUE SCHIMMEL / PATRICIA VAN DER VLIET

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Four models pretty different, for me as well, but… I decided to mention them together ‘cause they all showed good things here. Marique and Patricia are two models I like a lot, so a good confirmation here; about Ginta… I’m not a fan, not really, but I wanted to show what for me is the best place to see her, and so where she can show best things. Josephine is still somehow a mystery for me, but here embodied Valentino for the best, adorable and elegant with this outfit – I liked her really a lot.

+ NIMUE SMIT

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One of my fav models. Not one of the last Dutch (incredible) surprises, but interesting and noteworthy as well. A little underrated, but ok, luckily what she shows on the runway is amazing. Here too; what I love is the fact she can express such a great and austere confidence, and at the same time look fabulous like few models around.

+ SIGRID AGREN

+ TATI COTLIAR

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I just wanted to mention them, ‘cause you know, Sigrid and Tati are two great models, perfect in this show – so here they are. Sigrid especially for me is the quintessence of the elegant uptown girl, I said it a lot of times, but the song (“Uptown girl”, obvious: Sigrid official soundtrack) is once again playing in my mind, so I had to write it…

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