Oh, finally!, can you believe it?, but right this weekend after quite busy/lazy/unmotivated (a little of all those things; and some others too) weeks I finally did the posts I still had to do about FWs shows, so now little by little this week I’ll share them (5 posts, for the record: Prada / Balenciaga shows, and then two others just like this one). Next week you will still find those about single models and their FWs instead, which in fact in my mind already were supposed to have a little more long-term cadenced frequency.

GIVENCHY

++ Kati Nescher / + Elena Bartels

+ Katryn Kruger / + Nastya Kusakina

+ Ella Kandyba / ++ Franzi Mueller

Erjona Ala / + Julia Nobis

+ Saskia de Brauw

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I quite liked this show, because of the strong conflicts it proposed. From this point of view I talk about the collection itself and the femininity it expressed, and how so different models each with peculiar qualities differently embodied the collection and its show’s vibes.

So if Katryn Kruger / Nastya Kusakina / Ella Kandyba proposed their “delicate reliability” (and so successfully: not an easy show for models like them, and that’s why I like these three really a lot), the austere and severe beauty of two models like Franzi Mueller and Erjona Ala looked simply perfect. Saskia de Braw then with her strong, mature and drop dead femininity, and Julia Nobis’ “grunge fierceness” as you can see look great as well. So yep, if you’re a remarkable model, you can do practically whatever, and do it very well – from this point of view a quite-easy-to-underrate Julia Nobis had an amazing season, we’ll certainly see it later.

Right, what about Kati and Elena? Kati is one of the best models around at the moment, and such a show demonstrates why: she looks great, she’s capable to embody practically any kind of collection, and… well, in this show in particular such an indescribable allure has been a (very) welcome and kind of unexpected bonus. Elena… maybe a not-exactly-chiseled or unforgettable face, but who cares?, I quite like her, the light skin, her hair, the slender figure, and her pout is certainly memorable. Yep, I admit it, I was lukewarm during the first days of FWs, but little by little she grew on me, and now I’m curious to see what’s gonna happen.

GARETH PUGH  

++ Emily Baker / ++ Frida Gustavsson

+ Lara Mullen / Othilia Simon

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Gareth Pugh’s warriors, as you can see quite diversified. If the Frida / Othilia duo (even if each because of her own characteristics) has an amazing body and presence on the runway, and such a strong femininity, Emily and Lara partially because of their face, partially because of a marked severity they (can: for Emily, ‘cause Lara will do it in a Nina Ricci / Valentino show as well…) express, even if in Emily case it seems more natural, looked simply perfect as well.

About Frida it’s something like one year I underline how her renewed and now more mature and differently confident femininity represents such an astonishing factor, and a show like this one is a very good opportunity to say it once again. She’s not that sweet and adorable cutie you thought she was, or at least now she still can do it but just as a secondary option, and despite I’ve never been (and I’ll never be) one of those 12568459 (hehe or so) Frida’s “fanatic fans” I now like her more than ever, and I recognize her as such an interesting and amazing model – here (and in opposition, see Prada FW11/12 campaign, something she still can do very well) a very good demonstration.

CÉLINE

+ Franzi Mueller / Vanessa Axente

+ Elena Bartels / + Lara Mullen

Nadja Bender

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Not exactly a super-fan of Vanessa (even if better underline it: I quite like her), but here I guess she was in one of the “versions” I liked the most during the season. About Nadja, well, I don’t exactly love her, and… yes, I guess there isn’t a “but” in this case; or if there is one, “but” I have to say after all day after day and show after show she gave me the impression my doubts are especially (even if not only) about things that could be easily solved by a good old development, more than about intrinsic limits. So yep, maybe I won’t ever love her (see: the recent editorial in L’Officiel Paris April 2012), but there is a good material to work on (see: the recent editorial @ Danks Spring / Summer 2012 – that I didn’t like because of how naked she was, but ‘cause 1) after all, yep, it showed a very impressive presence, evident in shows she walked as well, and 2) after all we already knew it, the point isn’t about her body presence and/or language neither, it’s about her face expressivity in fact).

All that said, another show where I liked Elena really a lot, and where Lara had the chance to show how her severe beauty / attitude can be interesting and unique; even (especially I’d say, I like a lot this kind of contrasts) in a show like this one.

SEE BY CHLOÉ

+ Romee Strijd / Carolina Thaler

Kristina Romanova

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Romee is a quite strange case: I like the girl, after all I find her an interesting model, but… on the runway partially because of how her body structure comes out and partially because of what her attitude / walk express, well, I can’t love her, and sometimes like her neither – but I have to say I underline it commenting one of the shows where I liked her the most so far. Carolina, well, is simply a model I like practically whatever show she walks, and about Kristina… when she walked more shows I underlined how I didn’t like her so much, now I kind of miss her: so yep, whether I partially changed my mind or I simply like to write nasty things about her and now I don’t have many chances to do it (hehe no, just joking…) I’d expect to see her a little more often. No, I still can’t think of her as an exceptional or unforgettable option, or one of those models outstandingly good somehow a priori, but ok, that doesn’t mean her real dimension is walking the few shows she walked this season, ‘cause no, I don’t love her, I never will, but fair’s fair.

CARVEN

++ Nadine Ponce / ++ Codie Young

++ Nimue Smit / + Kate Kosushkina

+ Antonia Wesseloh / Zuzanna Stankiewicz

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What to say?, a show I liked really a lot, and where those models above looked great. A good opportunity to say I would have liked to see Kate walk more shows this last season?, sure, look at her, here like in any other show she has walked not in this season but in her whole career, and tell me she isn’t one of the most underrated models the world has ever seen; but ok, I can understand it, her awesomeness is quite subtle and cryptically unclear, it’s always been after all, so ok, that’s it.

So yep, Nadine (another model I love, and I find so interesting, the way at a first and cursory glance she couldn’t seem), Codie and Antonia look great too (for Antonia, here one of those shows where I may like her the most), but – what about Nimue? Straight to the point, what I love about her is the fact she’s everything but obvious, she can make every single appearance in every single show a very interesting and cryptic one, she’s (now: time has been a very welcome factor, and will still be) at the same time blooming with delicate and lovely grace, subtle seduction and refined elegance, and I really love it.

Oh, yes, Zuzanna, not so much to say, just a model with a beauty I find pretty interesting (and still to completely “discover”), even if I have to say (somehow excluding this show) not talking about runway especially.

NICOLAS ANDREAS TARALIS

Manuela Lazic / Elena Lazic

Larissa Hoffman

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If you spend your sleepless nights wondering what happened to Lazic sisters, well, here they are; yep, this gothic dimension simply loves them, but I guess they could express good things in other contexts as well. Plus: a Larissa Hoffman not exactly in the best place possible, at least a priori, but the result as you can see ain’t that bad, really not.

VIONNET

Larissa Hofmann / Franzi Mueller

Mila Krasnoiarova

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Talking about shows where Larissa can express her best… btw a good opportunity to mention another model I quite like and I’d like to see a little more often, Mila Krasnoiarova, a very good and reliable model.

I had the chance to write it in the post I did about Franzi’s season, but I want to underline it once again: I find outstanding the way such a simple makeup / hair / styling revealed like totally different shows such an interesting, cryptic and, why not?, fascinating beauty. One of the best (and somehow passed unnoticed) surprises of the season.

GUY LAROCHE

++ Frida Gustavsson / + Jemma Baines

+ Josephine Skriver

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A good opportunity to mention three models I like a lot (even if for very different reasons), and who looked simply great in this show. If we know very well Frida / Josephine best qualities, Jemma… I’m still not sure about her, what to think about her “here and now” and what the future will bring, but what I’m sure is I love her slight figure, the delicate beauty, and surprise! some very (very) subtle “Aussie vibes” (hehe I say so ‘cause it’s part of Julia Nobis / Dempsey Stewart “alternative /grunge soul”) I’m sure even if in a more delicate and graceful way if will come out will very positively surprise.

TSUMORI CHISATO

Jemma Baines / Kate Kosushkina

Anastasia Ivanova

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So here again Jemma, the super-underrated Kate, and an Anastasia… well, I can’t say I love her, but if I already happened to mention her so far in the blog, and quite positively, a reason there must be: a model with some intrinsic limits she will (probably; very probably) never overcome, but who ain’t that bad after all.

LOEWE  

++ Franzi Mueller / + Othilia Simon

+ Elena Bartels / + Saskia de Brauw

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Leather outfit + a severe beauty = wow, or simply Franzi Mueller in this show. Not by chance I mentioned Saskia too, ‘cause Othilia with her austere and severe beauty and such a statuary and terrific body presence somehow represents a halfway solution between Franzi and the Dutch model; that I like a lot, really a lot, especially in a show like this one.

Elena again in a show where I liked her, and a lot; yep, you can’t find nothing of the above-mentioned beauties or bodies, but… well, another very good and quite surprising appearance, that’s that; for reasons why, we’ll see them in another occasion.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

++ Karlie Kloss / + Aymeline Valade

Sigrid Agren / Kati Nescher

Julia Frauche / Marte Mei van Haaster

+ Irina Nikolaeva / Arizona Muse

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Well, what to say?, a designer I like a lot, some models I like a lot… plus Arizona… hehe – duh. :)

Jokes aside a model like Julia too, who for the record I quite like but nothing less nothing more, in a show like this (Isabel Marant, right below) has the chance to express her best, and it’s fair to underline it: in fact it’s one of those cases where if I find her in the right show looking great I’m just happy, the way I’ve been seeing her @ Stella McCartney.

Then – what about Irina Nikolaeva? I’ll do a post about her (@ Gioia) right tomorrow, but what I want to say even right now is I simply love the amazing mix her unique face and astonishing body represent. Here a very good example; of the fact Irina doesn’t have to be considered a “niche model” as well. I mean, wait, as you can see Aymeline even with her strong beauty is something else, but ok, what I’d like to underline is after all Irina isn’t that far from that kind of strong but still quite reliable and solid uniqueness.

ISABEL MARANT

++ Aymeline Valade / + Kati Nescher

+ Julia Frauche

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A drop dead gorgeous stunner (Aymeline), even in a quite “delicately measured” dimension, and two gentle touches of delicate charm I liked a lot.

COSTUME NATIONAL

+ Irina Nikolaeva / + Monika Jagaciak

+ Mackenzie Drazan / Patricia van der Vliet

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This season a show simply perfect for Irina, it’s plain to see; the way it is the fact a terrific Monika Jagaciak is one of the most outstanding models on the runway.

That said, if I believe Patricia would have been convincing even with her blond hair, and that isn’t hair that makes you or not a model “good for all seasons” (the way in fact, even if with such a lovely face, Patricia after all may be) – what about Mackenzie Drazan? I have once again to admit I can’t think of her as such an unforgettable or amazing model, or a model I would call a priori and upon trust for great part of the shows, but… in this one, like in some others, she looked great, and proposed what imo makes her really remarkable: the figure, a personally not incredible but quite distinctive and interesting skin, and a very subtle but cryptically indescribable femininity that if highlighted for the best (the way it happened in this show) I find outstandingly significant and certainly interesting. So yep, despite the 1000 shows she walked, I guess she’s after all a model still to completely discover… maybe that day I’ll be a fan.

BARBARA BUI

Anna Selezneva / Kendra Spears

Vika Falileeva / Ymre Stiekema

Vanessa Axente / Nadine Ponce

Josephine Skriver / Ella Kandyba

Julia Nobis

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A perfect show for the Anna / Kendra / Vika trio, Ymre too embodies such a mature, confident and captivating femininity even if with a strong injection of uniqueness, and… ok, Vanessa, Nadine, Josephine and Ella look great, I wanted to underline it but the thing was quite predictable in a show like this – but what about Julia? Can you believe we are talking about the same Julia capable to embody such a grunge side of Givenchy we saw in the beginning of the post, and do both things (Givenchy, and a totally different show like this one) so well, successfully and convincingly? And as you can see, unlike her workmates Patricia or Dempsey (Stewart – and that’s why I used the word “workmate” instead of “colleague”, ‘cause there is “mate” in it… hehe *_*’) she kept her hair blond, and the result ain’t that bad, really not; on the contrary, if in this show it’s a welcome touch of delicate grace, in others it contributes to create a very interesting contrast. Really, such a surprising(ly reliable too) and unique model I like now more than ever.

CHLOÉ

Katryn Kruger / Monika Jagaciak

Sigrid Agren / Colinne Michaelis

Mirte Maas / Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Hedvig Palm

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The Katryn / Monika duo at its best, and a kind of show I think simply perfect for a model like Hedvig Palm.

PEDRO LOURENÇO

Katryn Kruger / Irina Nikolaeva

Mackenzie Drazan / Carolina Thaler

Josefien Rodermans / Marte Mei van Haaster

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Awww, it’s always such a delicate pleasure to see Katryn, an outstandingly solid and reliable option capable to always express a refined, natural, innate and elegant grace like few other models can. Btw this show gives me a good opportunity to underline once again how I like and appreciate the Josefien / Marte Mei Dutch duo, and for totally different reasons how I find outstanding (even if still partially unexpressed) Irina and how I quite appreciated the season of Carolina. Mackenzie? Yep, another show where I quite liked her, but… well, there still are a good number of “buts” after all, talking about the off the runway chapter especially, but ok, when I like her I like her, and when she looks great the thing is quite undeniable – the way it isn’t her fantastic season, made of a really remarkable number of shows, and some noteworthy and surprising appearances (especially: I don’t care so much about numbers after all) as well.