Yes!, yesterday after a good night of NBA playoffs (don’t ask me why, ‘cause I really have no idea, right after Indiana – Orlando I watched Memphis – Los Angeles… I mean, Los Angeles where Chris Paul plays… I mean, where Chris Paul plays thanks to David Stern…) and sleep I finally woke up with decent eyes (conjunctivitis gave me another little break) and seized the opportunity to read and edit this post I actually prepared several weeks ago, so here it is:

CHANEL

++ Saskia de Brauw / ++ Aymeline Valade

++ Caroline Brasch Nielsen / ++ Zuzanna Bijoch

++ Kati Nescher / ++ Joanna Koltuniak

++ Josefien Rodermans / + Elena Bartels

+ Mackenzie Drazan / + Sigrid Agren

+ Iris Egbers / + Marte Mei van Haaster

Kendra Spears / Liu Wen

Andie Arthur / Montana Cox

Lindsey Wixson / Sojourner Morrell

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If I started the second part of the “Other models & looks from Paris Fashion Week” post with the graceful parade of Valentino princess, here another interesting (and almost never-ending too) one I quite liked as well. I mean, if Valentino is usually (this season too) way more univocally identifiable and easily recognizable, Chanel, even if in a less casual way if compared to other maisons, see Prada as the most evident example, following its deep-rooted “chic identity” tend to reinvent itself every season, generally pretty successfully, and this one didn’t disappoint too, at least, personally didn’t. I’ve never been a huge fan of those magnificent and kind of pharaonic settings, but ok, just a personal opinion…

That said – the list as you can see is quite long, so if I won’t focus on the astonishing Saskia / Aymeline duo, which better than any other model embodies Chanel’s refined and stunning elegance (both because of their breathtaking body and mature femininity), or how perfect for a show like these are models like Caroline / Zuzanna / Kati, who differently propose that same refined elegance, even if in a way more “graceful” way (even if wait: Caroline like Julia Nobis may be considered the new, unsolved like never before and amazing –like never before too- mystery of the season)… a very good opportunity to underline how I like two models like Joanna and Josefien. Two models I follow with optimistic interest, and… well, the second one has always showed such an astonishing solidity on the runway, and despite her not-exactly-unforgettable face or really distinctive presence, for the joy of a huge fan like me she has had the chance to walk blue chip shows, and in those, this one too in fact, she convincingly demonstrated how her refined, stone cold and marvelously measured attitude can be a factor. In fact I’d expect to see her more often and walk even more shows than she did so far, but of, we’ll see. And… yes, about the Polish model, Joanna, what I love is how subtle and kind of whispered her unique beauty is, and at the same time how that brilliant uniqueness meets an outstanding solid reliability – on the runway too.

Now, since a model like Sojourner Morrell would probably need an entire post to go into depth on the matter, and no, I won’t do it now… well, only a little special mention for Elena, Mackenzie, Sigrid, Marte and Iris, five models quite different as you can see but that I generally adore all (well, lately Elena especially), and here specifically too.

LANVIN

++ Frida Gustavsson / ++ Aymeline Valade

++ Saskia de Brauw / + Karlie Kloss

+ Zuzanna Bijoch / + Nadja Bender

+ Lindsey Wixson / Kati Nescher

Mackenzie Drazan / Sigrid Agren

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One of my fav shows of the season, and it’s not news at all. What I love of Lanvin (both shows and collections – better underline it: as a general consideration, the two things aren’t indissolubly linked the way it may seem) is how cryptic and multifaceted the femininity of its women is, so at the same time refined, classy, here and now even graceful, but with a strong injection of drop dead confidence I find simply stunning. From this point of view, if the Aymeline / Saskia duo is noteworthy, Frida is simply… wow. I’m loving a lot how her now mature and refined femininity meets the still sweet and graceful vibes she can express, I underlined it quite often when I happened to write about her and shows she walked, but the thing is so amazing that any opportunity to repeat it is quite welcome.

Back to general considerations, a good way to describe both show and models is to say Lanvin can include whatever you may find in the Aymeline Valade / Lindsey Wixson / Kati Nescher triangle, and I talk about the kind of model, and as you can easily see above the kind of attitude you may have chosen to propose (or: anyway proposed, see Lindsey, amazing nevertheless amazing almost always the same way) on the runway as well.

Btw a good opportunity to say, yep, a great Zuzanna (her graceful attitude is simply fabulous, we’ll see it below @ Jean Paul Gaultier), and personally a Nadja I found in one of the best versions of the season…

YVES SAINT LAURENT

++ Othilia Simon / ++ Franzi Mueller

+ Elena Bartels / + Zuzanna Bijoch

Iris Egbers / Lena Hardt

Iris van Berne / Elza Luijendijk

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Here we are in front of a femininity even more confident and on the “unreachable and kind of unapproachable side of the refined class”. Yes, that, and… I somehow found austere and severe beauties were more welcome than ever and simply perfect here, so it shouldn’t be surprising I decided to indicate Othilia and Franzi as my fav models of this show (even if very differently in fact, and it’s not only about the body structure).

And… ok, once I say Lena is a model I adore, and I hope to see her way more often especially in print, where I think she’ll be able to express outstanding things… and that Iris is a model who can always (and personally quite surprisingly) look good and most important very comfortable in practically any context… well, Elza: have I liked her here? Sure, sure, she looks everything but bad, and I guess it’s quite objective… then… right – then? I don’t know, I still can’t love her, and this show somehow propose once again why.

On the contrary, miss Bartels has personally been one of my fav surprises of the season, her slender figure, flawless attitude and especially the face, that here once again demonstrated to be a wonderful canvas on which is possible to do practically whatever and do it very convincingly, are a factor, a fabulous one in my opinion, and… considering the fact with time she’s certainly fated to only improve and polish some little limits she still has, well, I can only be optimistic, and positively curious to see what’s gonna happen.

LOUIS VUITTON

++ Frida Gustavsson / ++ Carla Gebhart

++ Ymre Stiekema / ++ Daria Strokous

+ Othilia Simon / + Franzi Mueller

+ Elena Bartels / + Josefien Rodermans

Katryn Kruger / Nastya Kusakina

Lara Mullen

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Copy & paste of what I wrote about Chanel and settings, well, a collection I liked way less than the one of the last season, and… am I the only one who for a reason or another found Louis Vuitton some kind of classy spin-off of Marc Jacobs (the label, obviously, the guy is the same…)?

If I found Frida simply spectacular, and ok, no news (even if wait: I underline it the most I can, I’ve never been and never be one of her “fanatic fans”, really not… and in fact it’s something like one year I appreciate her the way I do now), and same considerations about Ymre and Daria looking amazing in such an elegant, mature, refined and in need of outstanding interpreters (the way they are) context – what about Carla? One of those models who… it’s not about an instinctive “I like her”, in fact I can’t say she’s one of the models I personally prefer, but from a totally different point of view I think she’s objectively a very interesting and remarkable model, and here she showed it once again. Like a model like Querelle (see below) she’s capable to express a subtle uniqueness, and at the same time being severely confident the way a show like this somehow required; plus, her walk, her beauty as well, everything is at the same time solid and reliable, and… well, I can’t think of her as a good option like other models, she’s something else, or better more if you prefer. I don’t think I’ll ever love her, but I’ve been glad to see her walk a good number of shows this last season (in Paris especially), and for the (always convincing, and a good number of times exceptional) way she walked them especially.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

++ Querelle Jansen / ++ Lindsey Wixson

+ Karlie Kloss / + Frida Gustavsson

+ Aymeline Valade / Zuzanna Bijoch

Kendra Spears

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Not by chance I decided to propose Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano shows one after the other, and not by chance Querelle is the first model you find above, right before Lindsey and Aymeline, two models you might think the best possible for this show. The point is… well, first of all if you think so you’re right, ‘cause two models like Lindsey and Aymeline with their strong (and fierce talking about the American especially) attitude / beauty and aggressive femininity are two successful (and somehow irreplaceable) options in such a show; that said, Querelle too is, and even if very differently I find her presence in this show interesting like few others. Styling helped a lot, and with a “slightly Jean Paul Gaultier” bottom (shoes and skirt specifically), a quite sober upper part and a hair not exactly showy like others in this same show, well, Querelle had the chance to bring on the runway something simply outstanding, and represent a one-of-a-kind option. What I love of Querelle is… she’s so solid, a reliable option with a mature beauty good for a wide range of solutions, and at the same time she can express such a subtle and fierce uniqueness I simply love – here one of the best examples possible.

What else?, I simply adore how Zuzanna can always bring a welcome and never-out-of-place “graceful elegance”, it’s somehow her trademark, and if it doesn’t look incompatible in a show like this, I can’t see where it could be… and, yes: Kendra. Not the kind of model I may prefer, but when some months ago I revalued Toni Garrn I somehow had to do the same with miss Spears too, and as you can see even in such a peculiar and fierce show the result ain’t bad, quite the opposite I’d say…

JOHN GALLIANO

++ Mackenzie Drazan / ++ Josefien Rodermans

+ Lindsey Wixson / + Andie Arthur

+ Julia Suszfalak / Anais Pouliot

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Talking about surprises, here there’s one on the contrary, an Anais Pouliou I expected to find (super-)convincing in such a show, but who… no, I simply can’t be a fan of her, especially talking about runway, here neither; in front of a camera, whatever my personal taste is, at least I have to say I can think of her as a way more interesting model.

That said: ok Lindsey, ok a Julia I like a lot and here too – what about Mackenzie, Josefien and Andie? The last one is one of my personal surprises of the season, just like what happened with Frida a couple of seasons ago I find her way more mature and capable of expressing a way more sophisticated and seducing femininity, without losing (just like Frida) that little touch of delicate and sweet grace, and I simply adore it. This show was a good test for this “new side of Andie”, and she brilliantly passed it.

Mackenzie and Josefien… well, if you’re surprised for how great they look in such a rough and fierce show, well, I’m not part of the group, ‘cause that’s part of their (brilliant) being “mimetically cryptic”; I mean, if the Dutch is my fav (somehow by far, at least at the moment), they both are great interpreter and in my opinion have the chance to express their best not only because of their solidity or reliable versatility, it’s something more if you want. As I said it for Mackenzie especially, ‘cause if I see her somehow perceived as a (borrowing football terminology) “go-to guy” but only for short or not exactly risky calls, it’s a good consideration for both of them. Btw styling gave us a chance to admire their legs too, and once I repeat Josefien is my fav, here she shows how more “friendly” her structure is, if compared to a slightly more “chiseled” one Mackenzie had the chance to show (thanks to those never ending legs too) on John Galliano catwalk.

ROCHAS

+ Bette Franke

Irina Kulikova / Julia Nobis

Katryn Kruger / Josephine Skriver

Nimue Smit / Josefien Rodermans

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Well, first of all, if I somehow “isolated” Bette it’s just because… well, look at her!, she looks simply great, she’s astonishing, such a flawless and captivating vision, and since after all here too she shows the (best) qualities of the quite self-explanatory model she is I guess there’s nothing else to say.

Then – those three couples that follow, not by chance I divided those six models that way, and you can easily see why. Irina / Julia are the most “fierce” and generally the most unique of the group, and I talk both about their beauties and the attitude they express (note: I already wrote super-positive things about Julia and her season, and even if I still don’t know if I’ll do a single post about that I won’t express my startling enthusiasm here too…), and Katryn / Josephine represent two models with a delicate and at the same time solidly reliable and versatile beauty mixed with such a graceful attitude and presence they could successfully express in practically every show – two models to call a priori for great part of the shows. The last Dutch duo is in my opinion from some points of view way more interesting and enigmatic, yep, Nimue too, ‘cause the way she propose such a refined elegance (with time more and more convincingly), those lovely vibes of the above mentioned duo and at the same time a beauty immediate but nevertheless marvelously inscrutable is some kind of magic, and I adore it.

And what I liked here is how those (very) different models because of a wonderfully multifaceted show (see the collection, makeup, hairstyle, generally the identity that has been given to the show) all had the chance to look great and remarkably contribute to a successful fashion show.

VIKTOR & ROLF

++ Aymeline Valade / + Mackenzie Drazan

+ Othilia Simon / + Carla Gebhart

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Well, Aymeline is such a striking goddess… and: what about Mackenzie’s skin?, simply awesome. The way it is Carla’s severe and determined expressivity.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Franzi Mueller / Mackenzie Drazan

Lara Mullen / Carla Gebhart

Othilia Simon / Valerija Kelava

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Oh, yes, where have we seen Franzi, Othilia and Carla (somehow in order of preference, of course)?, practically wherever ‘cause I mentioned them quite often, and here another good opportunity to see why. Really, the way such a severe / austere beauty meets a delicately slender figure, and I obviously talk about Franzi (Othilia’s structure is, well, I’d say “stunningly statuary”), is one of the things who drove me crazy the most during last season, and I hope I’ll have several opportunities to admire it in print as well, ‘cause the result will be in the same way noteworthy and impressive, I’m quite sure about it.

If about Valerija there’s not so much to say (such a great model), what about Lara? Someone told me yes, favorite model @ Prada this season, but what about the season before? It’s not that I didn’t notice her, the fact is… well, for how “monodimensional” is what she expresses on the runway, at least at the moment, it can happen to look great, but it can easily happen to be simply out of place as well. This isn’t the case, in fact I quite liked her, but… really, tell where have you see this same attitude, expressivity and runway approach, where?, practically WHEREVER, so yes, I revalued her a lot, really a lot, but if she won’t change this part of her, I guess I won’t ever like her the way I like other models. And that would be a shame, ‘cause I find the beauty she has and represents way more interesting than it may seem, and she partially had the chance to successfully show the variegated contradictions it can express in print (see: something like the editorial @ i-D by Jeff Bark). There are models whose intensity needs to be literally bridled, in her case it’s not that overflowing, it’s more about giving a direction, or better some other diverging directions…

BALMAIN

Aymeline Valade / Karlie Kloss

Lara Mullen / Julia Frauche

Nadja Bender / Aline Weber

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If Aymeline and Karlie are simply stunning, the way Aline can be as well but hardly on the runway (and I honestly still can’t understand why, but she somehow inevitably tend to lose something), Nadja once again gives me the impression of a model in need of development but who will be certainly able to “raise the pole” with ease, and… well, if Lara convincingly wears one of the must-have of the season – what about Julia? I already had the chance to say it, she’s not one of those models I literally love, but look at her!, what I adore is when she has the chance to express her best in shows like this with a quite clean and delicate makeup the result is simply marvelous, making of her an outstanding model. Plus: her beauty is really good for the vast majority of the shows, so I’d expect to see her even a little more often (more than 50something shows?, yep, why not?!) ‘cause she’d absolutely deserve it.